Drinking Victoria: Alysha Moscatt and Lucy Kendall

Published on 27 January 2022

Photo: Alysha Moscatt and Lucy Kendall of Allevare and Joans of Marc

Your guide to what’s in the glass from the people in the trade. 

Lucy Kendall and her partner Alysha Moscatt are the dynamic duo bringing a dose of diversity to your next bottle of vino. Based in West Gippsland, they make wine under their label, Allevare. When they’re not tending to vines and stomping grapes, the two run Joans of Marc, a wine subscription service highlighting amazing drops that are produced and distributed by people from marginalised groups, and they also look after a small block of vines in Maffra. Here's what they drink when they get about town (or when they’re bunkering down at home).

As far as I’m concerned, the defining place to get a drink in Victoria is…
Lucy Kendall: O.My in Beaconsfield. There's always such wonderful service and a broad range of wines, from classic to more contemporary, international and domestic. Also, beer on tap, which is very important, and a great selection of cocktails. Their produce is always fresh and sourced locally. They’re passionate and nail everything they do.

When someone hands me a wine list in a restaurant, I… 
Alysha Moscatt: Always ask what everyone is in the mood for. It's important to be open-minded and read the room. At the end of the day it's all about connecting with people and making sure the wine on the table sparks good conversation.

The Victorian spirit I’m loving most right now is…
LK: Loch Gin, from West Gippsland. Every Friday night we've been cooking up a storm, putting on RuPaul's Drag Race and drinking gin and tonics. It’s our dose of queer culture in regional Victoria. 

There’s no better value on a wine list or in a bottle-shop in this state than…
AM: Crawford River riesling: always delicious and incredibly great value. Also a bunch of legends.

My favourite place to buy booze is…
LK: City Wine Shop: knowledgeable staff and a fantastic selection of wines.   

I’d love to see us planting more…
AM: Sicilian varieties like nerello mascalese and carricante. We've got some very special red volcanic soils around here. These varieties have got beautiful acidity and structure, which would work well with the cool, coastal parts of Victoria. 

LK: In terms of brewing, Sailors Grave has really led the way in this, by using more local, indigenous ingredients. It's been exciting to see positive cultural change in the industry in the way things are farmed.

The last three delicious things I drank were…
AM: The 2018 Victoria Torres Pecis Tinto Negramoll from the Canary Islands. Next would have to be the 2017 Catherine et Claude Marechal Pommard and finally a bottle of Denis Mortet Chambertin. Honorable mention goes to the Kuura black tea that I enjoyed at Proud Mary recently.

My guilty pleasure at the bar is… 
AM: A fresh pint of Guinness!

The best or most important change to the way we drink in Victoria in recent years has been... 
LK: Focusing more on farming and the people involved. Supporting good, honest, hard-working people that are creating positive change, looking to movements outside of the wine industry for inspiration, and building supportive communities.

For me, the most inspiring person in the Victorian drinks world is…
AM: The person that might not get seen or recognised for their hard work or what they contribute. There are a lot of people involved in making a bottle of wine, like the pickers, the pruners, the logistics team, the sales team. There can be a lot of focus on the winemaker, but it's important for us to remember that a bottle of wine isn't made by one person.

Allevare, @allevarewines, Joans of Marc, allevarewines.com 

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