Published on 31 March 2020
The order: Pot-roasted chicken with morels, kale, tarragon and cabbage; ancient grain salad.
The review: Deep-golden skin, buttery braised cabbage and a rich gravy studded with morels: this is roast chicken dinner taken to the next level. Part of a daily takeaway menu Estelle is offering, the pot-roasted chicken is pure comfort in a tinfoil box. It’s half a bird - plenty for two people to share - and our order featured a thigh, a breast, a drumstick and a wing, conveniently portioned into two boxes. The salad of quinoa, pearl couscous, freekeh and cucumber offsets the riches of the chicken; a few more pickled cukes would not have been unwelcome. Because it was Saturday night, my boyfriend and I decided to get dressed up for dinner, an outfit change that lasted approximately 45 minutes before we decided we’d be more comfortable embarking on our next streaming adventure in loose-fitting pants.
Streaming option: After trying in vain to find The Godfather II on one of three streaming services we have subscriptions to, in the end we thought it would be funny to rewatch the first episode of Girls (Foxtel Now). It was, especially because – spoiler alert – you can flash-forward to the wilder times when Marni hooks up with Ray, or when Jessa and Adam are tangled in their hot yet destructive relationship.
Price: $56 for two
Leftover potential: This was the perfect amount of food for a meal for two, but keep the bones to make stock.
Pick up or delivery? Pick-up only from Northcote.
Booze for purchase? Yes. Wine and beer from the Estelle list are available to purchase when you collect your food. Think boutique Australian producers and a handful of Spanish, French and Italian wines.
Why you should order it: Estelle has been many things in the nine years since Scott Pickett opened the doors. Support the restaurant’s latest chapter and raise a toast to one of Melbourne’s enduring culinary talents.
Estelle, 243-245 High St, Northcote. Takeaway available seven days from 5pm. Order at theestelle.com.au.
By Emma Breheny
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