Recipe: Kishwar Chowdhury’s nargisi kofta

“Nargisi kofta is a dish steeped in history, blending the grandeur of Mughal and Nawabi traditions with one of Britain’s most iconic pub foods: the Scotch egg. Its name, derived from the Persian word ‘nargis’, for the narcissus flower, perfectly describes the dish when cut open: a boiled egg with a vibrant yellow yolk encased in delicately spiced minced meat.

“The origins of nargisi kofta trace back to the Mughal courts, where chefs sought to create dishes that were both delicious and visually spectacular. This culinary artistry found a natural home in Bengal under the Nawabs, who inherited the Mughal penchant for rich, indulgent foods and infused it with local flavours and traditions. Nargisi kofta was a centrepiece of grand feasts, or dawats, showcasing the host’s sophistication and hospitality.

“Interestingly, the legacy of this dish didn’t end within the borders of the subcontinent. British officers and East India Company employees, enchanted by its flavours, are believed to have carried the concept of wrapping boiled eggs in spiced meat back to Britain. By 1738, the London department store Fortnum & Mason had embraced the idea, ‘inventing’ the Scotch egg as a portable delicacy for travellers.

“While its British cousin settled into pub menus, the nargisi kofta remained a delicacy of grand occasions in India, particularly in Bengal (this dish remains a crowd favourite at all my dinner parties). The kofta, made from finely minced fatty lamb or beef, is spiced, brightened by fresh herbs and deep- fried until irresistibly crisp. moreish and satisfying.

“It can be served with a creamy, ghee- based gravy or enjoyed on its own. From Mughal courts to Nawabi feasts and British pubs, this dish carries a legacy of indulgence, creativity and global inspiration.”

Ingredients

• 750 g (1 lb/11 oz) minced (ground) lamb or beef, 30 per cent fat
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons garlic and ginger paste
• 1 tablespoon Gorom moshla (recipe follows)
• 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and crushed
• ½ teaspoon chilli powder
• 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 2 green chillies, chopped
• 1 bunch mint, finely chopped
• 1 bunch fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves, finely chopped
• 1 egg, beaten (if needed)
• 6 soft boiled eggs, peeled
• salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• oil, for deep-frying

For the crumb

• ½ cup (75 g/2¾ oz) plain (all-purpose) flour
• 1 cup (60 g/2 oz) panko breadcrumbs
• 1 egg, beaten

Method

1. In a large bowl, combine the minced meat with the onion, garlic and ginger paste, gorom moshla, crushed coriander seeds, chilli powder, Worcestershire sauce, green chillies and herbs. Season generously with salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly until the ingredients are well distributed. If your mixture feels too dry or isn’t holding together well, mix in a beaten egg to help bind it.
2. Next, divide the mixture into six equal portions. Take one portion and flatten it into a thin patty in the palm of your hand. Gently place a soft-boiled egg in the centre and carefully wrap the mince mixture around it, sealing any gaps so that the egg is fully encased. Repeat with the remaining eggs.
3. Once all the eggs are coated in the meat mixture, set up a station for the crumb. Place the flour in one bowl, the beaten egg in another and the panko breadcrumbs in a third. Lightly roll each meat-wrapped egg in flour, shaking off any excess. Then, dip it into the beaten egg, ensuring it’s fully coated. Finally, roll it in the panko breadcrumbs, pressing gently so the crumbs adhere evenly and form a crisp outer layer.
4. Heat oil in a heavy-based saucepan to 170°C (340°f).
5. Carefully lower the koftas into the oil, frying in batches to avoid overcrowding. fry for 10–12 minutes, turning occasionally, until the coating is deep golden brown and the meat is cooked through. once done, remove from the oil and drain on paper towel. Serve piping hot with a side of chutney or a squeeze of fresh lemon for extra flavour.

To make gorom moshla: combine all ingredients in a heavy-based flat pan. Place on low heat and let the spices warm through, tossing occasionally; they will darken slightly as they release their oils and become fragrant. Remove from the heat, leave to cool, then grind to a fine powder using a spice or coffee grinder. Store in a dry jar.

This is an edited extract from Smoke, Rice, Water by Kishwar Chowdhury, published by Hardie Grant Books. Photography by Armelle Habib, Ata M Adnan, Rana Pandey (Koi Worldwide) and the Chowdhury family archive. Illustrations by DhakaYeah. Available at excellent independent Victorian bookstores such as Readings and Hill of Content.