Cookbook author and MasterChef star Mel Persson is on a mission to prove that gluten-free dining in Melbourne is as diverse as it is delicious. The city’s gluten-free flagbearer has amassed a devoted following of more than 250,000 under the handle @theveryhungrycoeliac, has written three superb cookbooks – including the just-released Gluten Free Bakes – and even found love along the way. It’s fair to say she’s a champion of all things gluten-free, and beyond, and she’s here to show you that eating well as a coeliac in this fair city knows no bounds.
My defining food moment in Melbourne was probably starting to collaborate with The Gluten Free Chef, a ready-made meals business that was also operating a café earlier in the year. I started doing some pop-ups there for the fun and because I loved their ethos around food (i.e. everything being unapologetically gluten-free and delicious). I ended up finding a professional and romantic partner combined in the chef herself, so… a corny but undeniably defining food moment.
My local is the newly opened Itera in Brunswick. It’s the new spot from the team behind gluten-free bakery Kudo in the city, and I was incredibly chuffed when they opened their new location only six minutes from my house. It’s pretty rare to find a place that does fantastic pastries, delicious meals and excellent coffee. They’re not really boasting about being coeliac-safe, probably so as to avoid deterring people, and with the food they’re making, they’re definitely proving why it’s not necessary to disclose. They’re setting an excellent standard for gluten-free dining.
The best new thing I’ve found is… well, as I’m pretty new to Melbourne, most things are novel. But there’s a new place that’s just opened up in Collingwood called The Freehouse. They’ve combined a modern Aussie restaurant vibe with a spacious bar, and it’s completely gluten-free, drinks and all. I have a feeling it’s going to gain a reputation as being a real haven and watering hole for gluten-free folk and their people.
When I want to celebrate an occasion with a special meal, I hit up yum cha in the city. My go-to is Red Emperor. It’s hard to explain what a treat it is to enjoy a yum cha experience as a coeliac. While they’re not a dedicated gluten-free place (so coeliacs, please ask all the usual questions), they’ve got a good rep for having safe options across their menu. And when you tell them you’re gluten-free, they’ll bring out special soy sauce and a little table marker so that the other staff know what you can and can’t eat. I love going with a small group of friends so that I can have one of all the gluten-free options. The prawn and scallop dumplings are a must, especially when loaded up with chilli oil.
When I want to show off the city to friends from out of town, lately I’ve been taking people to Bird Bang’n Chicken in Brunswick. It’s possibly a slightly unorthodox choice, but it’s an excellent fried chicken restaurant with a great bar (and even better menu). They clearly see the value in offering excellent options for dietary restrictions because their menu is very customisable, and I’m yet to bring someone here who reports that their meal was anything short of delicious. Try the gluten-free boneless thighs and make sure you pair them with a pickle, some blue cheese buttermilk and, if you’re feeling it, a drizzle of their mango chilli hot sauce. It’s also just off Lygon Street, so for out-of-towners, they get a chance to jump on the tram and see much of what Melbourne puts on a postcard.
The best spot for a cracking gluten-free feed in Melbourne is La Tortilleria in Kensington. Authentic Mexican tacos make everyone happy, so it’s an awesome place to go with mates. They have share options, a Feed Me menu and everything is naturally gluten-free – it’s basically a coeliac paradise. They were also recently recognised for their dedication to Mexican authenticity with a Sello M, a seal of approval from the government of Mexico, so you know they’re legit if you want to taste the real deal.
My favourite place to load up on supplies is… I’ve got a couple of options here because I’m yet to find a singular spot for all my gluten-free goodies. I love an Asian grocer, and one of the best I’ve found is Minh Phat in Abbotsford. They’ve got a huge range of fresh and frozen products, as well as pantry staples that are a must for your own gluten-free kitchen. They’ve even got a pretty extensive range of gluten-free dumplings, which is very hard to find. Then, a new find is Gervasi Foodworks on Sydney Road. They have the BEST range of gluten-free pasta I’ve ever seen, and I’m not new to the game of finding hidden gluten-free treasures. Go there to find some interesting pasta shapes and enjoy the fact that the staff are usually chatting in Italian to their locals. It adds an extra layer of something special.
There’s no better value in the city than Pho Hung Vuong 2. And this is even after they’ve taped a sign to their counter apologising for the price increase. You can still get the biggest and best bowl of pho I’ve ever had for $20. I will say that while their menu states that their beef pho options are gluten-free and I’ve never had an issue (and I go there a lot), make sure you ask all the usual questions before diving in because they’re not a dedicated gluten-free joint.
And I wish more people would experience the excellence of gluten-free dining in Melbourne in general. Moving here, especially from where I was most recently based (Leeds in the UK), has been game-changing as a coeliac. The awareness in most eateries, the vastness and variety of our options – it really is quite incredible. The fact that I have enough options to pad this list is a huge privilege – and I didn’t even get to shout out my favourite suburban Chinese restaurant – Ipoh Garden Kitchen – so there we go.
I really wish that more coeliacs and gluten-free folk could experience that because it’s enormously encouraging and exciting, especially if you’re someone newly diagnosed, struggling to come to terms with a pretty big change to your day-to-day life.
If there was one thing I could change about eating and drinking in Melbourne, it would be… predictably, I feel I have to shout for my fellow coeliacs and gluten-free folk to demand even more awareness of the needs of those with dietary restrictions. While it’s improving all the time and (as I’ve said) I’m enormously thankful for what we have, it can still be a pretty big burden. To the stakeholders in the food scene here, I know how important the culture of food is to you. Sharing it, and sharing in the joy of it, is a huge part of all our lives, so please just remember that next time you’re building a menu.
But the thing I hope never changes here is the passion that you see in the food industry. I’m still figuring out how to be a Melbourne local, but it’s pretty damn clear how important it is to so many of you, and that’s probably why it’s so easy for me to feel at home here.
Follow along for more gluten-free adventures with Mel Persson via @theveryhungrycoeliac, and pick up a copy of her brand-new cookbook Gluten Free Bakes (Hardie Grant RRP $45.00) at great independent Victorian bookstores such as Readings, Books for Cooks and Hill of Content.