Aïoli is the new tomato sauce. Ranch is the new aïoli. Croquettes are the new nuggets. Panko is the crumb, heirloom is the tomato, and the deep-fryer is going boldly where fried things haven’t gone before.
We’re in the grips of pub reboot renaissance – across town and right across the state, and the blackboard menu has been given a serious facelift. The dishes that define the new pub dining are sometimes throwbacks, sometimes witty takes on the classics, often spicier and more diverse in their inspiration than in the old days and almost always delicious. Here are 10 examples from across Melbourne and Victoria that speak to the moment.
Steamed red ale pudding, The Pinnacle
The Pinny’s spin on the sticky date is a certified steamer. It’s everything you love about the dessert on almost every single pub menu, except it’s supercharged with a little red ale and a lot of malt. Serve it hot with a scoop of vanilla bean ice-cream and you’ve got yourself a party.
251 St Georges Rd, Fitzroy North, thepinnacle.melbourne, @thepinnaclemelbourne
Welsh rarebit doughnut, The Flying Fox Public House
Don’t you hate it when you can’t decide between a salty, cheesy, umami-loaded slice of Welsh rarebit and a great big honking doughnut? You won’t believe what I’m about to tell you next.
The Flying Fox Public House, 396 Bridge Rd Richmond, theflyingfoxpub.com.au, @theflyingfoxpub
The full spread at The Flying Fox Public House (image courtesy of The Flying Fox Public House).
Welsh rarebit, The Sporting Club Hotel
Don’t you love it when you know exactly what you want, and exactly what you want is a Welsh rarebit from The Sporting Club Hotel? The Fitzroy North pub’s iteration is a certified savoury sensation. It’s not reimagined as doughnut, it’s not inside a croquette, it’s just a classic done right.
27 Weston St, Brunswick, sportingclubhotel.au, @sporting.club.hotel
Picko roll, Smith St Hotel
“Are we a gastro pub? Fuck no. We’re a live music venue, with great food and drinks,” says Scott Pickett. The well-known chef has just launched the Picko Roll at his new pub in the former Gasometer Hotel. It’s kind of like the Chiko Roll you remember – the one with a mix of spices, beef mince and chopped veggies – except this is made fresh and hasn’t spent hours and hours hanging out in a bain-marie.
484 Smith St, Collingwood, smithsthotel.com.au, @smithst_hotel
Retired dairy cow cheeseburger, North Fitzroy Arms
A lot of heavy lifting has gone into the inner-north’s most talked about burger, and long before it hits the plate. Meat from retired dairy cows, a dialed cheese-to-ketchup-to-mustard-to-pickle-to-onion ratio, and just the right amount of bun toasting make for easy work as that symphony of sauce drips slowly down the back of your hand and onto those famous red tables.
296 Rae St, Fitzroy North, northfitzroyarms.com.au, @thenorthfitzroyarms
Retired dairy cow cheeseburger served hot at North Fitzroy Arms (image courtesy of North Fitzroy Arms).
Mac and cheese with ’nduja, The Morning Star
’Nduja on pizza. ’Nduja in pasta. ’Nduja alongside your eggs. ’Nduja you think everyone’s favourite spreadable spicy pork sausage goes well with your mac and cheese? The Morning Star Hotel in Williamstown makes a compelling case for this bold new riff on the classic side dish.
3 Electra St, Williamstown, morningstarhotel.com.au, @themorningstarhotel
Braised oxtail croquette with mustard aioli, The Royal Oak
It’s not filled with mushroom, it’s not filled with chicken, and it’s not filled with just cheese. The Royal Oak has entered the croquette arms race with an exciting oxtail iteration, bucking the trend even further by acknowledging that sharing is caring, and that sharing is much easier when there are four croquettes, not three, per serve.
442 Nicholson St, Fitzroy North, royaloakhotel.co, @royaloakhotel
Curried chicken bitterballen, Daylesford Hotel
The Dutch cousin to the French croquette is best served in Daylesford. Dutch-born chef Rob Kabboord may have since departed the Daylesford Hotel’s kitchen, but his spectacular curried chicken bitterballens aren’t going anywhere.
2 Burke Sq, Daylesford, daylesfordhotel.com.au, @daylesfordhotel
A trio of bitterballen at Daylesford Hotel (image: Richard Cornish).
Anchovy toasts, mint, lemon, aleppo pepper, The Punters Club
Anchovy toast is everywhere at the moment. In fact, it’s even at the pub, and that’s no bad thing.
376 Brunswick St, Fitzroy, puntersclubfitzroy.com, @puntersclubfitzroy
Quarterhouse | The luxe platter
Three fancy pub snacks. One reasonable price of 25 bucks. Quarterhouse’s luxe platter holds a freshly shucked Sydney rock oyster, a caviar blini, a bowl of hefty marinated olives and a strange sense of gratification that you’re somehow hacking the snack section of the menu.
693 Collins St, Docklands, quarterhouse.com.au, @quarterhousemelbourne
Three’s a party on Quarterhouse’s luxe platter (image courtesy of Quarterhouse).
Do you want more? Head this way for 10 of the best new restaurants in Melbourne and Victoria.
By Rick Stephens