The 150-year-old institution and pub-dining landmark finds a new lease on life, shifting the focus to fresh Aussie seafood and open-fire cooking.

There’s been no shortage of stellar pub reboots in Melbourne over the past 12 months, and the new chapter for South Melbourne’s O’Connell’s Hotel is right up there with them. There’s a brand-new menu that leans heavily into Australian seafood – and an XL wood-fired Josper oven to cook it in – plus a considered refit that feels pubby, warm and welcoming without being overdone. And behind it all, the same crack team of publicans responsible for bringing back Prahran’s Flying Duck and Williamstown’s Hobsons Bay Hotel.

The idea for the food was simple: the team wanted O’Connell’s to be a pub for everyone. And chef Michael Conlon has taken the brief and run with it. Here’s his picks of the menu.

Which dish best captures the O’Connell’s Hotel vibe, Michael?
Our grilled whole ocean king prawns with macadamia and bush tomato. This dish represents the connection of bush and sea that we envisioned for the food at O’Connell’s Hotel: Aussie seafood and distinct native ingredients cooked over fire.

The Silk Road Martini is quite the tribute. Tell us more about that.
It’s a nod to the great chefs who have left their mark on the pub’s history; most notably, the late Greg Malouf. The symbol of the Silk Road as a connecting trading route is a reference to our connection from past to present.

I’m here for a good time, not a long time: what am I ordering?
Fresh rock oysters served with pepperberry mignonette fit the bill here and are best enjoyed with a glass of Taittinger.

Got anything else light and fresh?
Our raw Victorian tuna with grapefruit, green apple and finger lime is refreshing and delicate. Exactly what you want if you’re looking for something tasty and light.

And how about if I like tasty food but don’t eat animals?
Keep it simple here. Go for the handmade ravioli with burnt butter, pumpkin and ricotta.

What if we really want to go big and go crazy. What have you got for us?
Our wood-fired Josper oven creates incredible smoky, charred steaks. Try the 30-day dry-aged club steak with hand-cut chips and your choice of sauce. If you’re willing to share, grab our 800g rib eye and get stuck right in.

And to close?
Lemon tart, crème fraîche, finger lime and lemon verbena is the perfect finish to a great meal – sweet and citrusy.

O’Connell’s Hotel, 407 Coventry St, South Melbourne, open 12 noon-11pm daily, oconnells.com.au, @oconnells_hotel