The Flying Fox is part classic neighbourhood pub and part modern London local, all packaged up neatly on Bridge Road in Richmond. And while The Flying Fox does what a pub should – sports on the telly, a freshly felted pool table and ample tables reserved for walk-ins – it sets itself apart from the other boozers on the strip with a belter of a menu full of British classics and sharp surprises. It’s a formula co-owners Alexander Back and Sophie Machin know well, and a recipe that has worked wonders at their sibling venue in St Kilda, The Lion and Wombat.
Here’s Back on their second British pub in Melbourne – and the origin story of its Welsh rarebit doughnut.
Which dish best captures The Flying Fox’s vibe?
Our Welsh rarebit doughnut captures our British-inspired take on pub food. It’s playful, punchy and doesn’t take itself too seriously.
Tell us more.
An invention by our kitchen team, the rarebit doughnut consists of a bao dough that’s filled with the cheesy, beery, mustard filling and deep-fried to order. It’s served on a bed of our caramelised onion chutney. For anyone familiar, it’s similar to Branston Pickle, which is a very British condiment. Intended to ooze when you cut into it or break it open; you pick up your half of the doughnut and slather on the chutney.
And that’s not the only fun riff on a British classic, right?
Our rye crumpet served with pippies, spring onion and ginger sauce is a really playful riff on the classic British crumpet. You use the crumpet to mop up the bright green spring onion, ginger and pippi sauce.
What if I’m here for a good time, not a long time?
Order a smoked pork-hock Scotch egg with sour cherry ketchup and grab yourself a pint of Hop Nation Rattenhund pilsner – it’s a match made in pub heaven.
Got anything light and fresh?
Our confit duck leg, bitter leaves, beetroot puree, pickled beetroot and hazelnut dressing is on the lighter side while still being packed with earthy, pubby flavour. Otherwise, go for the dory, fish-bone peppercorn sauce, cime di rapa and confit potatoes. The peppercorn sauce is made from a smoked fish-bone vinegar emulsified sauce. It takes two weeks to create and is so much lighter than it sounds.
How about if we like tasty food but don’t eat animals?
Our fried ricotta polenta, confit leek and chive mayonnaise is a real flavour bomb. On mains, the barbecue cauliflower, black garlic gremolata and toasted almond is vegan and also delicious. We also offer a vegetarian and vegan roast on Sundays.
What if we really want to go big and go crazy? What have you got for us?
Our pie of the month is for the hungry punter who loves variety. Our first pie was the braised beef cheek, caramelised onion and pommes puree. That’s changing to chicken tikka masala, served with additional curry sauce on the side and charred, spiced autumn vegetables for the rest of July. You can order some of our sides, like Dutch carrots, caramelised yoghurt and lemon verbena dressing, or fried Brussels sprouts and chicken-fat vinaigrette, as well as barbecue broccolini with Gordal olive and parsley dressing, to share with your table.
And to close?
Our sticky toffee pudding is such a nostalgic classic. It’s rich, sweet, a little salty and has house-made clotted cream to cut through the sweetness.
The Flying Fox Public House, 396 Bridge Rd Richmond, open 12 noon-late daily, theflyingfoxpub.com.au, @theflyingfoxpub