The parma has its place, the schnitzel is in the midst of a moment, while katsu has just begun its dash in the deep-fryer. And that’s what’s cooking at Atsu, a hot new casual katsu-forward spot in Carlton.
And you’ll find katsu in all its forms at this light and bright omakase-style counter: over rice, skewered on sticks and on its own. It’s not an entirely new proposition but it’s one that’s pulled off with a precision not often seen in Melbourne, and the secret may lie in their pursuit of the perfect panko. The crumb’s size depends on the protein – they believe big crumbs are tastier for beef, for instance, and smaller crumbs for pork – the brining process is treated like religion, and frying is an exact science.
The brains behind all this belong to the team from Sachi, Melbourne’s hot-ticket Japanese pop-up-turned-restaurant. Here’s Reki Rei, owner of both venues, with how it’s done:
Your katsu is the talk of the town, or at least online. What’s the secret?
Patience and detail. We brine the meat, use clean oil, fry at the right temperature and even change the size of the panko crumb depending on the protein. Pork, chicken, salmon and wagyu are all cooked a little differently so the texture and flavour are always en pointe and never overpowering.
Atsu’s pork katsu (image: Kaede James Takamoto)
Which dish best captures Atsu’s vibe?
The ton don is the one. You’ve got pork katsu over our egg and chive rice. It looks quite simple but the detail is in the brine, the fresh panko and the balance of sauce and rice.
If we’re here for a good time, not a long time, what are we having?
Pop in for the menchi scotch egg skewer and order up on a lemon highball while you’re here. It’s crunchy, it’s juicy, and it’s easy to finish – and the refreshing highball keeps things light and bright.
Got anything light and fresh – possibly not a katsu?
Sure do. The kingfish tataki with kabosu and pickled cucumber is a great place to start. Otherwise, we’ve got a mushroom and cauliflower salad with pickles and butter – they’re equally refreshing and balance out the katsu if you’re going down that road.
Katsu goes great with a Highball, and you’ve got around 10 variations running on the menu. Tell us about them.
Highballs are a big part of Atsu. We specialise in lemon Highballs and make everything fresh in-house. The OG lemon is clean and classic, the sour lemon is sharp and refreshing, and the nigori lemon is cloudy and rich. On top of that, the strawberry Highball and the tomato miso Highball have quickly become favourites with our guests. Each one is made with fresh ingredients and designed to balance the richness of katsu.
How do you look after vegetarians, vegans and people who can’t or won’t eat gluten?
We have a yasai don with seasonal vegetable katsu and skewers like tofu and shiitake or zucchini with moromi miso. Panko plays a big part in what we do, so if you’re opting for gluten-free I’d suggest going in on sashimi and sides. We try to look after everyone.
What if we really want to go big and go crazy. What have you got for us?
Order the Atsu Atsu Picks, our chef’s choice of five skewers, and add gyusuji (our beef tendon stew), king salmon sashimi and a round of Highballs. That’s the full spread.
And to close?
The warabi mochi skewer is quickly becoming a go to. It’s fried with nori, it’s playful and it’s sweet. Or finish it all up with another strawberry highball.
Atsu, Level 1/15-17 Lincoln Square, Carlton, open 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9.30pm Tues-Sat, reservations via sevenrooms.com, @atsu.melb