Chabela owners Harry Lawrence and Karla Martinez met in Coyoacán – a vibrant district in Mexico City known for its corner-store tacos and fine diners alike, and, of course, as the home of Frida Kahlo. When the couple relocated to Melbourne, they soon realised Mexican food here was missing something – a certain depth found so commonly in Coyoacán – and so, a lease on High Street later, Chabela was born.
The menu, largely informed by recipes passed down through the family Martinez, is all about Mexican food as the main event. Enchiladas are done pipián-style, with a sauce made from peanuts, sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds, dried chilli, tomato, garlic and onion – all of which are toasted individually before being blended to ensure maximum depth of flavour. Enfrijoladas, the bean-based counterpart to the enchilada, come loaded with cochinita pibil (the slow-roasted pork that the Yucatan region is famed for) and rest semi-submerged in a rich sauce made from refried beans.
Chabela’s enfrijoladas de cochinita pibil (image: Julian Lallo).
“People here don’t really think of Mexican food as mains,” says Lawrence. “But for me, I think the mains are really incredible – that might be a slow-cooked piece of meat with a mole on top, and some tortillas on the side to soak it all up.”
Quality and quantity come together in full-flavoured harmony across Chabela’s dishes, including its best-selling huarache, the taco’s larger, oval-shaped cousin which are handmade daily with imported blue corn. At Chabela, this one is usually dressed with thinly sliced rib-eye and punchy pico de gallo, but there are plenty of standout vegetarian options, too, with mushrooms cooked down with the earthy herb epazote.
That’s not to say tacos are off-limits at Chabela – snacking is welcome at the Thornbury hot-spot if that’s more your lane – and there are a few toppings exclusive to the smaller handmade tortillas, including prawns, cactus and a couple of seasonal numbers. And when it comes to drinks, a considered list of Margaritas reigns supreme, but Lawrence and Martinez are committed to putting more of their Tajin-rimmed, Cointreau-spiked Mescalitas on more tables and in more diners’ hands.
“The Mescalita is just a really nice alternative to a Margarita. The Mescalita is smokier, and mezcal, for me, is just as interesting as tequila.”
Chabela is about as close as you’re going to get to the rich and diverse flavours of Coyoacán without leaving Melbourne. You’d be mad to miss it.
Chabela, 832a High St, Thornbury, open for dinner Wed-Fri, and from 3pm until late Sat and Sun, chabela.com.au, @chabelathornbury