Getting fizzy with it – with The Mulburry Group's beverage manager Kayla Saito.
Kayla Saito thinks deliciousness in the drink should come before all else, and that’s a very believable proposition for anyone who’s found themselves at one of bars in The Mulberry Group folio (where she heads up the beverage program). Behind the curtains, though, is a soft spot for seasonality, sustainability and storytelling in the shaker – whether you’re taking a kombucha-charged Spritz at the fermentation-forward Molli or a dressed-up Daiquiri loaded with Thai basil and apricot at Dessous.
Here’s the word on what’s pouring well in Saito’s world now.
When someone hands me a drinks list, I check out the non-alc section first. I love seeing creative, produce-driven low- and no-ABV options where the flavour of fresh ingredients can really shine. Here in Melbourne, my favourite is at Hazel. They have a clever non-alc Spritz menu from bar manager Tom Hnatjuk. He’s got simple, clean flavours with interesting pairings that work perfectly with the food.
As far as I’m concerned, the defining place to get a drink in Victoria is… For wine, I’d send someone to Public Wine Bar for their constantly rotating list and the kind of food that pairs perfectly with every pour. For spirits with a focus on Australia and Victoria, Black Kite Commune offers a beautifully considered experience, while Byrdi showcases cocktails that truly celebrate the changing Victorian seasons.
The last three delicious Victorian things I drank were…
Maidenii Nocturne Vin Amer – Perfect as an after-dinner or late-night sip. It’s complex and well-rounded, with earthy depth from black truffle and layered native botanicals.
Reed & Co’s Yuzu Chuhai – Exactly what you hope for in a chuhai. It’s fresh, bright, and zippy, with a crystal-clear punch of yuzu from Victoria. Honestly, a crowd pleaser.
The Dress Rehearsal from Caretaker’s Cottage – a vodka, strawberry and ube fizz that’s both nostalgic and fresh.
The Victorian spirit I’m loving most right now is Backwoods Distilling Co’s Chardonnay Barrel Whisky. Backwoods is such a special distillery tucked away in Yackandandah, a town I fell for long before I ever tried their whisky. The chardonnay barrel whisky feels so uniquely Victorian. They work with only Australian-grown grains, use locally sourced native botanicals, and create some fun and interesting cask maturations. Everything is made in small batches, so each bottle feels special and personal.
There’s no better value on a wine list or in a bottle shop in Victoria than Independent retailers like Cardwell Cellars. Their selections are so thoughtfully curated, often with staff who genuinely love sharing knowledge. You get incredible value and insight in one visit.
My favourite place to buy booze is Four Pillars Distillery’s Cellar Door. The team is welcoming, and the experience always leaves you learning something new.
I’d love to see people planting, brewing or distilling more of pretty much anything that celebrates what grows well here, including hops, citrus, orchard fruits and wine grapes. Victoria’s combination of coastline, rich soil and reliable water makes it a grower’s dream. There’s an open-minded, innovative spirit here, and I’d love to see that continue to evolve through how we farm and ferment.
My guilty pleasure is fortified and dessert wines, especially Pennyweight’s range from Beechworth. Beechworth is one of my favourite parts of Victoria, and Pennyweight fits the area perfectly. They’re a family-run winery practicing certified organic and biodynamic farming, and they make such beautiful wines on their estate. Their Constance Fino is incredible in cocktails, and their aperas like the Gold, are amazing with cheese, chocolate desserts, or honestly just on their own after dinner. I love the history behind the winery, their connection to the region, and the care they put into their products, they feel honest, Old World, and very loved.
The most important change to the way people drink in Victoria has been a growing independence from traditional styles and categories. Producers and drinkers alike are more confident to embrace the uniqueness of this land and let local produce, terroir and creativity lead the way.
The most inspiring people in the Victorian drinks world are those who share knowledge generously. You see it in the energy of places like Samuel Pepys Wine and Public Wine Bar, and in people like Cara Devine, who are open, informed and community-minded. I also find inspiration in chefs and educators like Caitlin Koether, who explores fermentation and preservation with such respect for seasonality and waste reduction. These people remind us that sharing knowledge is what drives our industry forward.
Follow @kayla.m.saito for more, and check out Saito’s recently launched drinks agency at @drinktallorders