The hit bayside kiosk has set its sails for the inner north this summer, bringing with it signature delights from the deep – including the smash hit salt-and-pepper squid.

Albert Park’s favourite seafood kiosk is testing the waters north of the river, and following a soft launch that went surprisingly hard over the past few evenings, it’s clear Fitzroy has taken the bait at Pipis North, which has set up shop on the former Alta site just off Brunswick Street. 

Fans of the southside locale are in for a real treat with the return of the salt-and-pepper squid, and, yes, that clam flatbread. Newcomers to the Pipis experience, meanwhile, score themselves several exclusives – most of which come with a Basque bent. In the snacks, we’re talking tiny little crumpets stacked with spanner crab and swordfish belly that’s skewered and splashed with a boisterous jungle bisque. And then there’s the potato salad, and not just any potato salad, this one is done with the Mediterranean in mind where it’s less about the potato and more about the grilled octopus hiding within. 

Light and bright is the name of the game at Pipis North, even when concerning the main event: delicately butterflied mackerel accompanied by an equally delicate bone broth shine here, but there’s also one helluva cheese kranski appropriately adorned with peppers up for grabs, if, for some reason, you’re going to Pipis North and intending not to eat seafood. 

Drinks are done with what’s on the table in mind. A salty serve of Pipis seaside salad gin and fino sherry? Big yes. How about half bottles of oyster-friendly Chablis, riesling and pinot gris? And what if we told you those half bottles are all coming in at a very reasonable $50? It’s an affordable affair at Pipis North, and one you’ll want to put on your radar before it’s gone. 

Pipis North joins a niche but growing list of Mediterranean-leaning pop-ups around town. And between Basque Txoko’s residency at South Yarra’s Nobody’s Baby and Ellie Bouhadana’s stellar seafood window on St Kilda beach, fans of the genre are spoiled for choice no matter which side of the river they call home.

Pipis North, ​274 Brunswick St, Fitzroy, open 4pm-late Weds-Fri, 12 noon-late Sat, 12 noon-8pm Sun, pipiskiosk.com.au/north, @pipisnorth