Steady on the chicchetti – Brunswick’s new Venetian wine bar puts the north Italian snack in the spotlight.

Brunswick brothers Matthew and Anthony Lucato grew up on a steady diet of their nonna’s cicchetti, lasagne and other such Italian delights, so when they decided to leave their nine-to-fives – one a KFC area manager, the other in the music biz – to open a wine bar, it was of course going to feature more than a few recipes from the famiglia Lucato. On the plate, that translates to the little snacks you know and love, including baccalà, burrata and deep-fried mozzarella, plus lesser-known morsels such as sardè in saor (sardines bathed in an onion–raisin brine) and Italian-style slaws matched with Italian wines and rare amari. 

It’s a Venetian vision executed with both flair and care, and one that’s not often seen on the streets of Brunswick, or Melbourne, for that matter. Here’s Anthony Lucato now with how it came to be and what you might like to order when you’re there. 

We hear your nonna’s cookbook informed some of the menu.
Absolutely. Our nonne were women of the people: always hosting, always feeding everyone around them. Our Nonna Maria’s lasagne is taken straight from her handwritten cookbook at home. From the secrets hidden in the layers to the exact brands of passata she swore by.

Which dish best captures Da Bepi’s vibe?
We’re a cicchetteria at heart. Small, bite-sized Venetian snacks. You’ll find classics like baccalà mantecato (whipped dried cod) and sardè in saor (sardines in a sour-sweet sauce) to prosciutto with burrata or more modern Italian flavours on any given day. The cicchetti does indeed change daily, and we always cater to dietary needs.

I’m here for a good time, not a long time.
Start with something quick and shareable then jump into our drinks list. The classics are all here: Spritz, Negroni, plus our frozen sgroppino and signature L’Alba cocktail, made with house-infused spirits for some unexpected flavours.

Got anything light and fresh?
Yes! Our new white anchovy with pickled onions and peppercorn. We love it paired with our Italian-style slaw, with pickled radish, peas and a bright lemon dressing.  

How about if I’m vegetarian, what’s on the menu?
Plenty. Highlights include our vegetarian fritto misto – lightly battered and fried vegetables with salsa rossa, plus classic vegetarian pastas and a rotating selection of cicchetti.

And what’s on the menu if I’m after a late-night snack?
Go for the mozzarella in carrozza. A four-generation recipe, the ultimate Venetian late-night bite. Deep-fried mozzarella sandwiched between bread: crunchy, gooey, perfect after a few drinks.

What if we really want to go big and go crazy. What have you got for us?
Jump into our 50-plus wine list. From local Australian makers to Italian producers close to our hometown, like the Maculan Family Winery in Breganze, just 15 minutes from where our grandparents grew up.

And to close?
You can’t beat Nonna’s tiramisù, made fresh daily and always the first thing to sell out. Or choose an amaro from our collection – whether you love the classics (such as Montenegro and Fernet Branca) or something more niche like Alpino or Rucolino.

Da Bepi, 391 Sydney Rd, Brunswick, open 3pm-3am Wed-Sun, @dabepi.bar