Andreas Papadakis and Luke Skidmore’s fifth venue is their first to venture past the cuisines of Italy, and boy, is it a show of versatility. There are plenty of snacky things, including a three-bite tuna and fermented porcini tart that packs flavour well above its weight. The middle of the menu, meanwhile, is dominated by protein: pig’s head terrine, a rainbow trout that’s proving a hit with lunch crowds, and lamb sweetbreads to round things out.
Now, here’s what you might like to order according to our man on the ground and Harriot’s head sommelier, Justin Howe.
How about a drink?
The French Pearl, a house-made concoction of local gin, lime, mint and pastis that perfectly whets the appetite.
What if I’m here for a good time, not a long time?
A spot on the bar, a couple of rock oysters with horseradish and quince, and two or three tuna tarts. House-made rye shells, fermented porcini and Mooloolaba tuna. Absolutely delicious and perfect with a glass of Georges Laval Les Garennes, a highly sought-after Champagne that we’re pouring by the glass, but only for the first few weeks of Harriot!
Got anything light and fresh?
Absolutely, the rainbow trout is quickly becoming a favourite amongst staff and guests. It’s our crudo-ish offering. Lightly cured for one hour and then flashed in the wood-fire for 10 seconds. It’s served with sugarloaf cabbage, trout roe and a lovage oil that really elevates the dish and freshens the offering. We like to serve it with a glass of Muraje Fileura, a chiseled and herbaceous white wine from the tiny alpine region of Carema in northern Italy.
Head chef James Kelly spent years in the kitchen at Lyle’s in London. What’s he bringing to the table at Harriot?
Europe is forever a source of inspiration for people across our industry. Having been fortunate enough to dine at Lyle’s a couple of times, the thing that struck me was balance. Each and every ingredient is in peak season and in perfect harmony on the plate. It’s never over complicated. James cooks with a sense of confidence that puts the focus back on the ingredients. It’s a breath of fresh air.
What if I like tasty food but don’t eat animals?
The gnocchi at Harriot is an absolute must have. Pillow-like potato parcels are served with a hearty green sauce of braised cavolo nero and Comté cheese. It’s warm, nourishing and for the next few weeks is also served with a generous portion of local Oak Hill truffles. In second place, the celeriac. Thinly sliced, served with macadamia cream, rainbow chard and a myriad of flavours and textures. It also happens to be vegan friendly.
Which dish best captures the vibe at Harriot?
For me, lamb sweetbreads. On our ‘research’ trip to France many plates of ris au veau and ris d’agneau were consumed. It really ties in with our approach to using and respecting the entire animal. James still gives a nod to local produce with the considered addition of finger lime. A much needed element which beautifully contrasts the natural gamey qualities of the offal. It’s also seriously good wine food and I finally have a reason to bring out the aged Chenin Blanc and Grüner Veltliner!
Let’s go big. Let’s go crazy. What have you got for me
I would book the private room for a long lunch, sit down at midday and out by 5pm. Our current winter menu consists of six courses: there’s a great selection of what the chef’s feel is best on the day and also a few favourites. We have curated quite the list of magnums, too. There is Champagne, Chablis, Burgundy, Barolo, Brunello, all the things we love! We can close the doors for added privacy, but we can also leave them wide open if you would like to feel the energy of the dining room.
And to close
You’ll find a trolley just by the pass, it contains all of our favourite post dinner drinks. Eau de vie, whisky, cognac and amaro. One bottle in particular, the Michel Huard Calvados, was brought back in a suitcase from the most recent trip to Paris. There is only one 1500ml bottle and it’s dwindling, quickly. I also love the Citron, a Sicilian Petronio liqueur made by none other than Burgundy superstar Jean-Marc Roulot.
Harriot, 555 Collins St, Melbourne, open 12 noon-11pm Mon-Thurs, 11am-11.30pm Fri, 5pm-11.30pm Sat, harriotmelbourne.com, @harriot.melbourne