Daphne, the Etta crew’s new restaurant, makes its debut this September, and they’ve made one heck of an appointment ahead of their first service: chef Diana Desensi. You might remember her work at Montalto, Pt. Leo Estate, or more recently at her month-long stint on the pans at Julie. Her cooking is oftentimes described as nostalgic, instinctive and deeply seasonal – and now, Desensi shares what to expect from the kitchen ahead of her and Daphne’s anticipated arrival on Lygon Street.
The brief for my new gig is big, bashful plates of food. Bright, delicious dishes that can be enjoyed at any time, from quick drop-in snacks to heartier meals perfect for a mid-week dinner, party vibes and late-night dining.
The way I go about putting together a new menu is by thinking about how I eat, what’s in season, and the techniques I can use to create depth of flavour and make something as delicious as possible. From there, I usually land on one or two hero dishes, then build out the rest of the menu based on what would feel right alongside it on the table.
You might remember me from such establishments as Montalto working with Matt Wilkinson, Karen Martini’s Saint George, Pt. Leo Estate, or Julie, where I’ve just completed a month-long residency.
I’ve been cooking professionally since I was 22, which is quite late in the game. I wanted to leave school at 16 to train as a chef, to the dismay of my parents, who wanted me to get a degree. I ended up going to TAFE, pulled myself out and got into cheffing without them knowing. Surprise!
And I’m passionate about reducing waste in the kitchen. People should pay as much attention to this as they do to food safety! We have a responsibility to the environment, to use everything in the best possible way, and to be respectful and resourceful with our ingredients. My focus is granular when it comes to waste – I even want to know where our coffee grounds are going.
Which means I like to cook using produce in every way I can. Daphne’s just a few doors down from Etta, so Lorcán and I have been talking about getting whole proteins in and sharing them across both venues, using different cuts. We’ll also always be pickling and preserving so we can use beautiful Victorian produce from our farmers year-round.
And once Daphne opens, the one thing I want you to try before you leave is the pork cotoletta with bitter leaves, egg and anchovy. It’s a Daphne take on a classic schnitty Caesar.
Daphne is expected to open this September. Keep up to date at @daphne.3057.