After more than five years in the kitchen at Gimlet and time on the pans at Roux at Parliament in London, chef Hannah Holleran has stepped in to lead the kitchen at one of Melbourne’s most enduring dining destinations, Cumulus Inc. Holleran has no plans to mess with the brief at Cumulus – that is, delicious food served in a buzzing dining room – but that doesn’t mean she won’t be making it her own. She’s keeping her relationships with growers, producers and foragers close, and she’s introducing a handful of new and exciting dishes to the menu.
Here’s she is with exactly what that looks like, and why you need to order the madeleines for dessert.
I’ve been cooking professionally for about 14 years. I started super young and never looked back. Being in a kitchen environment is the only place I’ve ever wanted to be. The camaraderie, creativity and thrill of service are the best things about hospitality.
You might remember me from such establishments as… Before Cumulus, I was working at Gimlet for just over five years. Before that I was in London working at Roux at Parliament Square by Michel Roux Jr.
The brief for my new gig is delicious food, a welcoming environment and a buzzing atmosphere.
The way I go about putting together a new menu is starting with seasonality. Working directly with farms has always been such a pleasure during my time in Melbourne, and at Cumulus, it’s no different. Being able to reach out directly to the growers and foragers to see what’s at its peak and what is coming next season really dictates the menu. From there, it is all about flavour, and I love simple and bold flavours that let the produce sing.
And I’m passionate about creating delicious food and providing amazing, tailored hospitality. They’re two of my true joys. I love spending time with guests at our marble bar and making their experience special and unique.
One of the most important parts about working in a kitchen is having a great kitchen culture. I’ve experienced the good and the bad so, to me, nothing is more important than a team that works together harmoniously and enjoys coming to work every day. The beauty of hospitality is that it’s a fun and creative space, and when you have a team that loves working together, there’s no better place to be.
I had the pleasure of working with an amazing farm, Upton Grove, two years ago, during my time at Gimlet. They grow some of the best stone fruit I’ve ever tasted. Unfortunately, I haven’t had the chance to use any of their produce at Cumulus yet due to them being severely affected by bushfires early this year, but I wish them all the luck in the rebuild, and can’t wait to have their produce on the Cumulus menu in the future.
Which means I like to cook, honestly, everything. That’s the beauty of Cumulus – there are minimal boundaries in where you can take dishes, and it’s a space where you can be truly creative and playful. Producers and foragers play a massive part in what I love to cook – speaking to people as passionate as you are about produce sparks my creativity.
For example, a dish coming on to our harvest menu in June highlights puntarelle from Ramarro Farm, playing on the classic dish of puntarelle alla Romana. I dress the shavings of puntarelle with anchovies, lemon, capers and parsley, and serve it with pan-fried rock flathead and a sauce made from buttermilk whey and kombu. This dish is so simple but a joy to eat.
The one thing I want you to try before you leave is the madeleines. Beautifully light and delicate, filled with a silky lemon curd, they’re a perfect way to end your meal at Cumulus Inc.
Cumulus Inc. 45 Flinders Ln, Melbourne, open daily, noon-11pm, cumulusinc.com.au, @cumulusinc.