Product: Black truffles
What: Buxton black truffles have gained a reputation among chefs for their complex and intense aromas.
Where: Buxton, Murrindindi Shire, Taungurung Country
Who: Father and son Robert and Adrian Utter
Adrian, why are your truffles so aromatic?
We put it down to several things. First, there’s the large amount of organic matter in the soil that helps the growth. Second, we have very cold winters here. While we’re only at 300 metres, we are in a narrow valley surrounded by mountains. In winter, the cold air flows down the slopes, making it very cold here, especially at night, and truffles love the cold.
How do you grow truffles?
We planted 350 English oak and holm oak trees in 2008. Their roots were inoculated with black truffle spores. We grow the trees in the truffière with very little intervention; I don’t mow between the trees, and we don’t use herbicides. You see, the truffle fungus releases a substance that inhibits the growth of weeds and grasses. The truffle fungus forages in the soil for elements like calcium and phosphorus and gives these to the trees. In return, the tree gives the fungus sugars that the fungus can’t produce. It’s quite an amazing relationship.
How do you harvest?
We have two Brittany spaniels, Clara and Lily. One is very good; the other, not so. They detect the scent of the truffle and mark where it is. We confirm by getting on our hands and knees to sniff to see if it is ripe enough to harvest, and then gently dig it out of the soil with a dessert spoon. We produce about 30kg to 40kg a year.
Where do the truffles go?
We sell directly to some of Victoria’s best restaurants, like Mister Bianco, Trattoria Emilia, TarraWarra Estate, and Balgownie Estate in the Yarra Valley, and sell to fine-food grocers Boccaccio Cellar and Toscano’s. If anyone is interested in our truffles, contact me through our website: riverhousewineandtruffles.com.au