The San Telmo Group is home to some of Melbourne’s better-loved restaurants: San Telmo, Pastuso, Palermo, Asado and Robata. Each venue stands on its own, but they’re united in their precise execution of bold flavours, fire-driven cooking and a commitment to championing local producers – all guided by Melbourne-born executive chef Oliver Gould.
Gould leads the kitchens across the group’s five venues, crafting honest, flavour-packed dishes inspired by Argentine, Peruvian and Japanese cuisines. But that’s not all, he’s just as passionate about the char on your yakitori as he is about building strong teams, celebrating wins and creating a culture where trust, growth and a shared passion for hospitality allow his people to thrive.
Here he is now with where it all started, and how he got to where he is today.
How did you get your start?
I started out as a kitchenhand in a local restaurant back in 1999. After finishing high school, I applied for two jobs – one at Stokehouse and another at a restaurant run by Gabriel Martin in the Como building. I trialled at Gabriel’s first, but somehow thought the trial was at 9pm, instead of 9am. Leaving out the side door with my tail between my legs while the kitchen laughed as they finished service, I realised Stokehouse might be the better option. It certainly was – I ended up spending 10 years there, including five as head chef upstairs.
What do you think it is about San Telmo’s venues that has gained traction in Victoria?
San Telmo was the first venue to successfully reintroduce charcoal cooking to Melbourne. When it opened, diners were used to subpar gas-grilled steaks across most restaurants. Argentine cuisine resonated strongly with Melbourne’s dining DNA – great produce, long lunches, honest cooking, and good wine. We now have five venues in the group, each showcasing those same values through Peruvian, Japanese, and Argentine cuisines.
Is there any other special sauce to what you do?
We’re big on promoting from within. Developing and rewarding our people builds stable, passionate teams who genuinely drive each venue forward.
Any regrets?
Not travelling enough. I spent time overseas when I was 21, but not long enough to truly develop my culinary skills.
What about the big lessons learned?
Don’t try to do everything yourself. Restaurants are full of people eager to learn and contribute – many can perform certain tasks better than I can. Running a restaurant isn’t just about cooking; success depends on empowering others across all areas of the business.
What’s been the key to scaling up successfully for you?
Delegation and training. I used to get bogged down helping the team with prep or last-minute service tasks. Now I focus on making sure the team has what they need to execute each service and giving them the autonomy to run things their way.
Any tips on building a great team and workplace culture?
Hire for attitude, train for skill. Communicate openly, celebrate wins, and provide clear purpose. Give teams ownership and growth opportunities across the group. Culture thrives where trust, recognition, and shared goals drive performance.
You hear some operators and punters concerned that groups are beginning to dominate hospitality in Australia. What’s your take on that?
That’s certainly true in pubs and clubs, but it’s not necessarily a bad thing if larger groups improve quality and enhance the guest experience. In restaurants, there’s still plenty of opportunity for anyone willing to take the leap into starting a venue. As long as a group delivers quality, consistency, and value to a broad range of diners, it only strengthens the industry overall.
Times are tough right now. How are you adapting?
We listen carefully to our diners and learn from their feedback so we can keep improving. From a product perspective, we recognise that not everyone wants to spend big, so our menus are designed to be accessible across a range of budgets – from lunchtime and large-group set menus to Robata’s half-price offers that keep the dining experience inclusive for our returning customers.
Any advice for other operators who are hurting?
Invest in your visibility – marketing, SEO, and targeted social media campaigns make a real difference. The more eyes you can get on your brand and your offering, the better your chance of attracting new diners and keeping loyal ones engaged.
Who do you look to in Victoria for inspiration? Which venues and people set the bar for you?
Andrew McConnell and his restaurant group have set an incredible benchmark in Melbourne – from restaurant design and service quality to staff culture and, of course, the food itself. Their consistency and attention to detail have always inspired me.
Best-case scenario, how do you want people to think about what you do?
I hope my team feels empowered to work with autonomy and confidence. I try to lead with a calm, positive energy that sets the tone in the kitchen. More than anything, I want people to see that I genuinely love the food, the people, and the hospitality industry we’re lucky to be part of.
Find out more about The San Telmo Group and its restaurants at thesantelmogroup.com.au.