Mario de Pasquale and Mario Maccarone opened Marios along Fitzroy’s Brunswick Street in 1986. At the time, the Fitzroy community was mostly students, artists, musicians and actors. Rent was cheap and the locals were looking for a café to call home, somewhere to get a good, inexpensive feed. Enter: Marios, where the pair’s Italian heritage and fine-dining background paved the way for a mostly Italian, unbelievably accessible menu.
At the time all-day breakfasts were unheard of, and Maccarone says that this suited their clientele perfectly: breakfast, lunch and dinner, seven days a week. The kitchen never closed, and you could get anything you wanted at any time of the day. Four decades on, and the proposition remains the same for locals, the creative community at large and people from all over town.
Ahead of celebrating forty years in the game, here’s Maccarone now on the enduring success of their Brunswick Street institution, Marios.
How did you get your start?
We both worked in numerous fine-dining restaurants before opening Marios. We met in the early 1980s at Tsindos Bistrot in Bourke Street, Melbourne. Restaurateur and owner Raymond Tsindos had learnt his craft at the Florentino, guided by his father George Tsindos, who owned and ran the Florentino through the 50s, 60s and 1970s.
Tsindos Bistrot was a major influence for us. We had both also worked with Mietta O’Donnell and Tony Knox at Mietta’s. They were groundbreaking with their contemporary French food and style, along with live musical and theatrical performances, and they also proved to be a significant influence for us.
What do you think it is about your venue that has gained traction in Victoria?
Consistency, accessible, good-value food and wine make Marios an everyday place. A casual atmosphere with style and good service. Waiters that look like waiters, white tablecloths, muted jazz in the background and rotating art exhibitions on the walls. This became a template for many cafés that were to open in the 1990s and 2000s.
Is there any other special sauce to what you do?
I think our no-fuss attitude, along with a certain honesty, whether it be attitude or the produce we use. Patrons know a good thing when they see it.
Any regrets?
No.
What about the big lessons learned?
I know everyone wants good, talented staff. I also want them to be human, kind, thoughtful — I need to like them as people. It’s likely you will spend long hours with your staff, so be happy to be with them. Being talented and horrible doesn’t work for me.
Any tips on building a great team and workplace culture?
Provide honesty, respectfulness and kindness in the workplace, and have all the tools and equipment to do a good job. You can then expect some degree of loyalty and achieve a worthy result in the workplace.
Times are tough right now. How are you adapting?
We continue to do what we always have done. With 40 years’ history, we have seen many tough times — stick to what you do best and keep on doing it.
Any advice for other operators who are hurting?
If you are to survive in this industry, then stay true to your ideals, keep processes as simple as possible — a head-down, bum-up kind of attitude will get you through. People will always need to eat, and things will get better at some point — survivors tend to thrive when things improve.
Who do you look to in Victoria for inspiration? Which venues and people set the bar for you?
Andrew McConnell is the guy, and has been for quite some time — it’s impossible not to be impressed with all that he does. Con Christopoulos is an operator that has brought so much to Melbourne’s dining scene. Other favourites: Richard Lodge of Becco and Lupino; Gerald Diffey, along with Mario Di Ienno at Gerald’s Bar; and the fabulous Audrey Shaw with her Carnation Canteen and Bar Carnation. Old-school favourites Rinaldo Di Stasio, Jean-Paul Prunetti’s France-Soir and Anthony Scutella’s Scopri and Bar Olo… There are plenty more too. We tend to lean heavily towards the operators in the inner north.
Best case scenario, how do you want people to think about what you do?
I like people to see us as old school, reliable, honest and always there for them.
Marios celebrates its 40 years on Tuesday 28 April from 10.30am. Guests on the day will receive a complimentary publication celebrating the milestone, a free glass of prosecco and a serve of their chocolate, date and almond tarte. Find out more here.