“A pandan chiffon cake represents a childhood memory for many of us. Some of us scoff it balled up into a single dense morsel; others eat it slowly, mesmerised by its fragrance and lightness,” says Thi Le. “Pandan is an interesting food item to describe. The aroma is vanilla-like, cut with a bit of greenness. I find dog owners understand the smell innately – it is the smell of a dog’s paw pads, a sweet grassy note. I owe the development and refinement of this recipe to Kim Chin, a fellow kieu, who is as passionate about nostalgic desserts as I am.”
Ingredients
Coconut chiffon cake:
8 egg yolks
200 g (7 oz) caster sugar
100 ml (3½ fl oz) pandan juice (see notes)
50 ml (1¾ fl oz) coconut cream
60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil
¾ teaspoon pandan essence
¾ teaspoon natural vanilla extract
150 g (5½ oz) plain flour, sifted
2 teaspoons baking powder
Pinch of salt
10 egg whites
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
Coconut whipped cream:
3 g (1/10 oz) gelatine leaves (gold strength)
2½ teaspoons cool water
130 g (4½ oz) white chocolate callets
325 ml (11 fl oz) thickened cream
175 ml (2/3 cup) coconut cream, at room temperature
Salted coconut:
200 g (7 oz) freshly grated mature coconut
Pinch of sea salt
Notes
Make the pandan juice by blitzing 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) pandan leaves with 100 ml (3½ fl oz) water. Strain the mixture before using.
Pandan essence is necessary for both its aroma and aesthetics. Find it with the food colouring at the supermarket.
The cake tin is the same one used for angel food cake, 25 cm (10 inches) in diameter.
Method
Make the cake
1. Preheat the oven to 170°C (350°F).
2. Place the egg yolks and 120 g (4¼ oz) of the caster sugar in a mixing bowl. Using an electric mixer, whisk until light and aerated.
3. Whisk in the pandan juice, coconut cream, oil, pandan essence and vanilla. Stir the sifted flour, baking powder and salt through.
4. In a separate bowl, using clean beaters, whisk the egg whites until frothy. Gradually add the remaining 80 g (2¾ oz) of caster sugar and the cream of tartar, whisking until firm peaks form.
5. Gently fold a third of the egg white meringue at a time through the yolk mixture.
6. Pour the batter into a large ungreased 25 cm (10 inch) angel food cake tin. Smooth the surface. Run a skewer through the batter, then drop the tin once from a height to pop any large air bubbles.
7. Bake for 40–42 minutes, then check for doneness. Use your finger to gently press on the centre of the cake. If the cake springs back, then it is done. If your finger indent remains, cook a little longer.
8. Remove from the oven and leave to cool upside down in the tin.
9. Once fully cooled, remove the cake from the tin by running a sharp paring knife around the inside of the tin.
10. Without the icing, the cake will keep for up to 3 days in the fridge if properly covered with plastic wrap.
Make the coconut whipped cream
11. Place the gelatine leaves in a small bowl, cover with the water and leave to bloom for 10–15 minutes; it should form a gel-like mass.
12. Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl.
13. Heat the cream in a saucepan over medium heat, being careful not to let it boil. Pour it over the chocolate and stir until melted.
14. Add the gelatine and stir until dissolved, then stir in the coconut cream.
15. Strain the mixture through a fine-meshed sieve and chill to set for at least 1 hour.
16. Whip the coconut cream to stiff peaks. Set aside.
Ice the cake
17. Place the cake on a rotating cake stand. Using a palette knife and the help of the cake stand, spread the coconut whipped cream all over and around the cake.
18. Mix the salted coconut ingredients together and sprinkle over the cake. Once iced, the cake will keep for 2 days in the fridge, but it’s best eaten on the same day.
Images and text from Viet Kieu by Thi Le with Jia-Yen Lee, photography by Mark Chew. Murdoch Books RRP $55.00.
Viet Kieu by Thi Le is available now, including from such independent local retailers such as Hill of Content, Readings, and Books for Cooks.