Published on 6 February 2022
Lyndon Kubis on his favourite small batch, beachy Victorian chardonnay.
“This wine is a story of not just a region or vineyard, but a few rows within it. I think the further you zoom in on a site, the more interesting things get,” says Lyndon Kubis, the man behind some of your favourite south of the river wine spots, including The Alps and Toorak Cellars. The storied wine he’s speaking of is the 2019 Terre Maritime Chardonnay by the Mornington Peninsula producer Garagiste.
“Chardonnay, to me, is the most transparent grape,” says Kubis. “It intensely tastes of where it’s grown but has so much diversity in what it can produce, from lean and mineral to extravagant and opulent, it can do it all.”
His tasting notes for the Terre Maritime chardonnay read like a trip to the beach: salty air, crushed rocks, oyster shell. With that in mind, he suggests pairing this with barbecued Morton Bay bugs, doused in butter and parsley.
The 2019 was made in very small quantities, and while it may be hard to get your hands on, its smoky, citrus qualities make it worth searching for.
Garagiste Terre Maritime chardonnay, $69, available online here.
By Claire Adey
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