Published on 9 April 2020
The order: We’re big fans of the eat-in Capitano experience but there’s only two of us in our household, so we thought for the takeaway adventure we’d just dip the toe to begin with: a pizza each.
The review: On the strength of the grandma square pie, which is a Detroit-style creation a bit like a cross between a focaccia and a crisp-edged deep-pan pizza, and the tomato pie (“lots of tomato sauce, lots of garlic, marjoram”), we could’ve gone harder. Not because there wasn’t enough to go around – there was plenty – but just because it was so bloody good. The square pie is a must-order, its significant structural heft more than equal to a serious cargo of mozzarella, pecorino, stracciatella, basil and a lot of tomato. But next time we’ll beef things up with the cavatelli with pork and chilli sugo and Sicilian olives, a side of roast broccoli with almonds and lemon, and a hazelnut tiramisù. Should you wish to stock the freezer, the nine-inch classic cheese and double ‘roni are available frozen, too.
Price: $18 for the tomato pie, $24 for grandma.
Streaming option: Is now the time to try and watch The Irishman in a single sitting? When better? Or the two watchable Godfather movies back-to-back? Or go the whole gabagool and start The Sopranos from scratch? Again?
Leftover potential: Grandma not so much – the fridge does her no favours – but the rest of the pies work beautifully as a work-from-home breakfast or post-jogging snack.
Pick up or delivery? Pick-up daily 1pm-8pm, delivery to select inner-northern suburbs Thurs-Sat 5pm-8pm (delivery fee $5, minimum delivery $25).
Booze for purchase? Oh yes indeed. Capitano is owned by the same crew as Bar Liberty, and the wine options are impeccable. Even the order buttons on the website come with tiny notes. Cerruti riesling is “a certified natty banger”, Cristiano Meggalio Soave is “like a glass of butter” and Little Reddie’s new nebbiolo is, “honest to god, an absolute ring-dinger”. For a serious night in, consider the Vecchio e Stravagante section for things old and extravagant, or cut to the chase with bottled cocktails like the Olive-oil Martini or the Tiramisù Milk Punch. Hell, there’s even amari to go if you consider a night without a digestivo no night at all.
Why you should order it: Owned by a group of folks who include people who are Italian and people who are American but all of whom are Melburnian, Capitano is a very Melbourne take on the Italo-American school of cooking – and perhaps all the better for it.
Capitano, 421 Rathdowne St, Carlton. Pick-up available seven days, 1pm-8pm. Delivery to select suburbs Thurs-Sat, 5pm-8pm. Order at: capitano.com.au
By Pat Nourse
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