Published on 18 January 2021
Bringing a chef with a stellar background together with one of the city’s most celebrated chef-restaurateurs in a CBD site that has been home to some great dining, Chancery Lane is an exciting new addition to Little Collins Street. Former Quay 2IC and Merricote chef Rob Kabboord is on the pans at this new Scott Pickett venue, his European background and the innate polish of his cooking an giving the bistro menu unique verve.
Here Kabboord picks his personal hero dishes from a carte packed with hits.
How about a drink?
With 20 or so wines by the glass, a couple of beers on draught and a smart selection of cocktails, you definitely won’t go thirsty. We have plenty of choice in the wine list – if you ask our sommelier Hannah Day for some help with pairings, she might even reach into the niche in the wall that once housed a safe and pull out a Grand Cru Burgundy.
I’m here for a good time not a long time.
Come in for a snack at the bar; pissaladière with a Kronenbourg 1664, perhaps, or a black-truffle toastie with Negroni Francais. Or, if the Melbourne summer permits, a house-aged charcuterie platter with a glass of Chateau Peyrol Rosé outside in our jardin.
Got anything light and fresh?
We do a seafood selection that you can order by the piece: everything from fresh oysters, Hervey Bay scallops with fennel and finger lime and Storm Bay clams with cucumber and scampi caviar all the way to an Apollo Bay crayfish or a deluxe seafood platter for two. If you’re not familiar with the caviar bump, meanwhile, you’ll want to add that to the list.
I like tasty food but I don’t eat animals.
Our heirloom tomato consommé is vegan and a refreshing delight during the warmer months (side note: it also photographs very well). We also cater for our vegetarian guests with cauliflower and Comté croquettes, with our Meredith goat's curd tart, and we do a very good gnocchi Parisienne.
Name the dish that is quintessentially Chancery Lane.
I love all of them, and we’ve only just opened, but if I have to choose, I'd lean towards the grill section, especially the dishes we do for two. Think porterhouse on the bone, whole roasted John Dory and a barrel of lamb cooked over cherry wood and charcoal.
And to close?
A little dessert and cheese rolled into one: our composed cheese course, Holy Goat La Luna, strawberries and spekulaas. I’m Dutch, so I can’t resist a spiced biscuit. Delicious with a glass of 2018 Leeuwin Estate Brut (which tends to flow quite freely here).
Let’s go big. Let’s go crazy. What have you got for us?
We can definitely help. To start, a bottle of Krug ‘Grande Cuvée’ with a tin of Beluga caviar and the classic condiments is a strong declaration of intent. I'd follow that with a seafood platter and a couple of glasses of Pierrick Laroche Chablis. I also roast a whole duck for two, which would pair very nicely with a bottle of Jean-Marc Burgaud ‘Grand Cras’ Morgon. After this I’d suggest a selection of cheeses (we have five, but I wouldn’t make you choose) with perhaps a cleansing Citray Saison from La Sirène brewery. To finish, you’ll want to save room for our raspberry baba, inspired by the rhum baba, but served with a raspberry liqueur instead. That could go nicely with a signature Blackberry Tart Martini. Then we could start thinking about dinner…
Chancery Lane, lunch Fri, dinner Tues-Sat, 430 Lt Collins St, Melbourne, 03 9089 7598, chancerylane.com.au
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