Imagine if one of Melbourne’s most innovative and interesting operators decided to get into ramen. Imagine if one of the coolest ramen spots in Japan decided to come to Australia. Now imagine both of these things happening at the same time, in the same place. In Ascot Vale. Has your head exploded yet? If not, get ready for Café Ogawa, a brand new ramen café that’s all about the excellence of iekei-style ramen.
You can thank Kantaro Okada of Tsunagu Project – the man behind katsu hot spot Atsu, Hareruya Pantry and 279 among others – and true to form, the latest venture is an exercise in taking the path less travelled. And in this case, the path stretches from Yokohama, Kanagawa, all the way to Melbourne’s inner suburbs with a rich and warming bowl of ramen rarely found down under.
Unlike its more common tonkotsu counterpart, iekei ramen is layered with several proteins: you’ve got yourself a soy-based pork broth, a couple of slices of pork chashu, and then there’s the chicken oil. The result? A bowl that’s salty and rich in umami allure.
There’s also a killer tonkotsu option on the menu if that’s more your flavour – the one with more salt and less soy – plus “special” versions of the tonkotsu and the iekei which essentially double down on size and airdrops in an ajitama egg.
And while Okada promises to preserve the original tried and tested recipe, the Melbourne iteration of Ogawa looks and feels a little different to its sibling abroad. Those unmistakable Okada flourishes include specialty desserts – with cream cheese, yuzu and blueberry gelato sourced and scooped from Hareruya Pantry – there’s also specialty coffee and a vinyl collection primed for soundtracking your Ascot Vale outing.
Fun fact: there’s also an overhead magnet you can stick your phone to – should you feel the need for a birds-eye view of you, your tablemates and your bowl of ramen.
Okada is excited to bring something new to Ascot Vale. “We’re not here to disrupt Union Road,” he says. “We’re here to blend into the community, contribute something meaningful, and earn our place.”
Cafe Ogawa, 217 Union Rd, Ascot Vale, open 5pm-9pm Tues-Thurs, 11am-2pm and 5pm-9pm Fri-Sat, @cafeogawa