The Vespertine Group’s general manager, Rebecca Dunn, thinks success lies in delivering a singular experience for every guest who walks through the door – but what does that look like when you’re overseeing operations across four buzzing venues? For Dunn, it’s equal parts consistency and commitment across the stable. That might take shape as the signature 90ml “long and strong” Martini at Gin Palace; it might be the way the Bijou team so lovingly talks guests through its towering wine wall upon each visit; and it’s almost certainly the fact you can order a wallaby pie, kangaroo kofta or fried crocodile right up until midnight – seven days a week – at Black Kite Commune.
Here’s Dunn now with how they get it done and what she’s learned along the way.
How did you get your start?
Singing into a Heinz ketchup bottle at Johnny Rockets, but the revelation moment was Madame Brussels, circa 2006. I was the assistant manager to Ben Luzz (who I’ve come full circle with here at Vespertine) and of course the original Madame, Miss Pearls. That place taught me hospitality could be full of joy, not just for guests, but for staff. Giving people a unique experience is a gift, not a transaction.
What do you think it is about your venues that has gained traction in Victoria?
The late and great Vernon Chalker founded Gin Palace in 1997 and was a true pioneer in the industry. He introduced table service in a bar – restaurant-quality care over cocktails. Nearly three decades later, that ethos still anchors all four Vespertine venues. There will always be something special about being tended to at your table, no matter the occasion.
Consistency is huge. We never waver on opening hours. Kitchens never close early. We onboard all staff in the same way and never sway from what each venue is, at its heart. Melbourne has learned they can rely on us. You can get a Martini and a chicken sandwich at Gin Palace on Christmas Day, or a beautiful Aussie whisky and some fried crocodile at midnight – any night of the week – at Black Kite Commune.
Is there any other special sauce to what you do?
I’ve worked in a few industries over the years – the arts taught me the intricacies of good design and communication. Community services taught me creativity and resourcefulness in scarcity and also that the barrier to success is rarely skill – it’s confidence. I was privileged enough to be helping women who’d been systematically overlooked find their footing. Now I try to bring that lens to hospitality – an industry that hasn’t always been great at developing and treating everyone equally.
Any regrets?
No time for that! Though I do sometimes wonder what life would be like if I’d pursued my degree in speech pathology (my guess is more sleep, less fun). There are more wins in the fumbles, and they are usually much faster.
What about the big lessons learned?
There is no such thing as the perfect venue, job or colleague. Perfection is finding people with shared values, similar work rhythms, and a safe space to learn, fail, grow and finding somewhere where you genuinely enjoy your day-to-day.
What has been the key to scaling up successfully for you?
Taking it slow and taking leaps, in the right measure. Having the right people in the right roles. Really honestly interrogating what has worked and what needs to change. Not every opportunity is the right one, and not every pause means you are standing still.
Any tips on building a great team and workplace culture?
Trust. We hand recruitment to our venue managers; they build their own teams. We want managers to feel confident in curating well-rounded, diverse, multi-skilled teams of their own.
We want everyone working with us to reach their potential, whether that is here or beyond. Most of our team will not stay forever, but if their time with us positively impacts their trajectory, that is a huge win,
Being on the same laneway helps enormously. When one venue is in the weeds or needs an obscure garnish or has a broken dishwasher, the whole laneway is available to help. Group managing director Ben Luzz and I strive to be present and approachable. Neither of us are hard to find or get support from.
Times are tough right now. How are you adapting?
We love the saying complacency is the silent killer – Jess Clayfield, venue manager, Black Kite Commune. It’s now a key point in our management induction. There is not a week that goes by without Ben Luzz, the managers and I discussing what is next, whether that’s a new menu item, an event or staff training. We try to stay nimble, even (and especially) for a venue like Gin Palace, which turned 28 last November. We are also led by the data, what our guests are actually enjoying, every week.
Any advice for any operators who are hurting?
Cliche but key: bring it back to basics. Focus on every single guest’s experience, from the second they walk in, to the second they leave. Melbourne is absolutely saturated with incredible venues and talented professionals. Consistent, authentic welcomes, connections and experiences are what make you the place people return to.
Who do you look to in Victoria for inspiration?
In venues: Embla in the CBD and La Pinta in Reservoir. Completely different locations and styles, but whether you’re there for a quick knock-off, a bottle and a snack with a friend, or an hours-long feast, you’re welcomed and impressed every time. Impeccable, unpretentious service. Never transactional or rehearsed, always genuine.
In people: Trish Brew will forever be an inspiration. She ran Gin Palace for eight years and recently founded her own gin, Bellicose, and remains one of the best people in the business.
And of course, the team at Marionette Liqueurs, ex-bartenders making exceptional products that we use in every venue. Their dedication to quality, creativity and integrity is inspiring.
Best case scenario, how do you want people to think about what you do?
Hospitality gives joy in two beautiful ways, being part of a community and experiencing something unknown. Welcoming familiar faces or first-timers, or giving a visitor a Melbourne moment they will recall for life.
When we talk about what makes Melbourne world class, it is the harmony of arts, hospitality, design, history and culture. Being part of that is so special to me.
And the impact hospitality has on lives should not be taken lightly. The relationships forged during long, busy nights with colleagues. The regular customer or brand rep who becomes a best friend. The bartender who serves you a perfect Martini and ends up giving a speech at your 60th. The memories created when a venue gets it just right.
For more on Vespertine’s great Melbourne venues, head to ginpalace.com.au, blackkitecommune.com, barampere.com and bijoubottlestore.com