Daniela Maiorano is a fourth-generation chef from Abruzzo, Italy. Her life in food has taken her to kitchens around the world – from London and Berlin to several stints back and forth between Rome – before planting roots in Byron Bay in 2016. A decade later, and after more than a few pop-ups at great Melbourne venues including Bar Olo and Sunhands, you’d be forgiven for thinking this bright light in Italian cooking is a resident of this fair city.
And the good word is that Maiorano is back in town for the Festival later this month, serving her delicious fresh pasta from Sunhands’ window. Curious where she might be dining before or after service? Here she is now with her where she’s eating when she’s in Melbourne.
When I land in Melbourne, the first place I go for a drink is… Bar Olo has become a new favourite for me since my recent residency there. It has this relaxed Italian feeling that reminds me of home. Anthony Scutella, the owner, is such a character and one of the best hosts I know. He makes me feel like I’m back in my father’s restaurant in Abruzzo. His wife Alison Foley runs the farm that supplies the vegetables for the wine bar, which I love. They don’t use social media much, but the community absolutely adores them and the place is always buzzing. Aleksis Kalnins, the head chef, is funny and talented – I loved working with him. If you go, you have to try the salted butter Martini. It’s incredible.
I know I’m in Melbourne when I look around and feel like I’m surrounded by my people. There is something about the energy of the city that really understands the way I cook and the way I see food. Sometimes I even think I should move there. I love the culture, the cafés, the bakeries, the incredible food scene, the music and the art. There is this openness and curiosity that makes Melbourne feel very alive. I love that there’s such a strong hospitality community, and I get to visit friends like Anthony Femia at Maker and Monger for the world’s best cheese toasty.
The best new thing I’ve found in Melbourne is Nuvoletta Gelateria, run by my friends Vera Teodori and Alex Toretto. And I’m not saying that just because they’re my friends – their gelato is truly incredible. You can feel how much passion and research they put into what they do. I met Vera many years ago when we were studying photography together. At that time I was already working as a chef, and becoming a pastry chef wasn’t even something she was thinking about yet. Seeing the path she has taken since then is amazing. Together with Alex, they’ve built something very special. The flavours are always thoughtful, sometimes unexpected, and always beautifully balanced. Every time I go there, there’s something new to discover, and that curiosity and creativity is exactly what I love about Melbourne’s food scene.
I’m excited to be cooking at Sunhands because… I love Sunhands. When I first contacted Ishella Butler, the owner, and asked if we could do something together, she welcomed me with such warmth. The whole team there is beautiful, and the kitchen is all about honest, healthy food, something I really connect with. It’s a place with a very special energy, and every time I cook there I feel like I’m part of the family.
And if there’s one thing you have to try from my pasta window, it’s the simplicity of handmade pasta. What I love most about cooking now is that I’ve started removing things rather than adding more. I try to keep dishes honest and focused, letting the ingredients speak for themselves. At Sunhands, I’ll be making all the pasta by hand and playing with different sauces instead of always cooking the same classics. Many people think Italian food is only pizza, ragù and burrata, but the regional cuisine of Italy is incredibly rich and diverse. Through these dishes I want to show some of those lesser-known flavours, especially from my homeland of Abruzzo.
When I want to go all out on a special meal in Melbourne, I go to Anchovy, Thi Le’s restaurant. I simply love her food and her story. I recently bought her book and felt so inspired by it, especially now that I’m writing my own. There is so much honesty in the way she tells her story, just like in her cooking. Every time I eat at Anchovy I’m amazed. The technique, the depth of flavour, the balance in every dish – everything feels thoughtful and precise, but still very soulful. It’s the kind of food that really stays with you.
And I wish more people would experience the excellence of Zelda Bakery in Ripponlea. It’s my forever favourite bakery. It feels completely different from most other bakeries. Everything there is made with so much care and passion, and you can feel it the moment you walk in. The first time I tried her apple turnover I almost cried. It was that good. I think when someone cooks with the same love and dedication you feel an instant connection. Zelda is open only two days a week and everything sells out quickly. It’s truly a community place, you can see it from the long line of people waiting outside.
My defining food moment in Melbourne was… I don’t think I have just one defining moment. For me, Melbourne is a constant discovery. Every time I come back I find something new, a market I didn’t know, a small bistro, a bakery hidden in a neighbourhood street. That’s what makes the city so exciting for someone who loves food. The scene is always evolving.
The one thing I hope never changes about Melbourne is its incredible ability to welcome difference, and the way so many communities, cultures and ideas live side by side and enrich each other. There is a real beauty in that diversity. People are curious, open-minded and accepting of what is different, and that creates such a vibrant food and cultural scene. For me, that spirit of inclusion and freedom is what makes Melbourne truly special, and I hope it always stays that way.
Daniela’s Pasta Window, Sunhands, 169 Elgin St, Carlton, 26 March-29 March, 4pm until sold out